Sometimes the stars align and when I asked my wife ‘What would you like to do for your Birthday?’, I was surprised by the answer: ‘I’d love to go to Venice on the Orient Express!’
This is the moment when anyone probably should realise that a good Travel Agent is their first call. Thankfully I did and Trevor was.
The trip we planned was more involved but The Venice Simplon Orient Express most definitely deserves an article all to itself (I’ll share parts of our overall trip elsewhere), lets just take the time to revel in the memory of an exceptional experience.
Paris stands as one of the iconic cities everyone should visit. It had been far too long since our last time there and it was lovely to find ourselves back in the City of Light. Little did I know before travelling that we would end up staying at Hôtel Le Sénat, one of the city’s historic establishments—within which Émile Zola lived for a year in 1866.
Zola, the great French novelist and social commentator, famously penned the line:
“Nothing develops intelligence like travel.”
— Contes à Ninon (1864)
As we were in Paris primarily to board the Belmond Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, I hope in some small way we honoured that illustrious former resident—by embracing the very spirit of discovery and elegance that Zola so admired.
On the morning of our departure we were collected from the hotel and whisked through the Parisian streets to Gare d’Austerlitz. The Orient Express awaited, its polished carriages gleaming like a promise.
The very first Orient Express journey departed Paris on 5 June 1883, travelling to Vienna and eventually reaching Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul). It was a marvel of its time, blending luxury with the thrill of international adventure. It has gone through many iterations and fortunes since then. We were to enjoy it for one night.
Everything about the experience is special. From that moment you are collected by your driver all is organised for you. At the station you are greeted by porters who take your suitcases for them to disappear into the luggage compartment. You need a handy carry on as you won’t see your suitcases again, at least most likely till you arrive in your destination hotel as we did.
On the platform staff from the train greet you, some lined up in front of the train, music plays, smiles are broad and there is a sense of occasion, a sense of joy and the crew make you feel like they care deeply that you have the experience of a lifetime.
Stepping aboard the train was like entering a dream. Mahogany panels, Lalique glass, plush velvet seats—each detail whispered of a bygone age. The service was impeccable, the cuisine a symphony of flavours that would have made even the most discerning Parisian gourmand weep with joy.
“If you ask me what I came to do in this world, I, an artist, will answer you: I am here to live out loud.”
— Émile Zola
Our cabin was in one of the heritage carriages and you have to admire not only the craftsmanship but the design that, nearly one hundred years later, makes a plush seating area so simply convert to night time bedding.
Time moves at a different pace and too quickly in truth. We sat down to a bottle of Veuve Cliquot and a selection of treats. That was a delightful introduction to a carefully choreographed journey for the taste buds.
Which sitting for dinner? We chose the earlier one at seven pm. A wander through the train, bar carriage and three restaurant cars leaves you in awe. Everyone you meet, whether staff or passenger seems to genuinely enjoy this experience and treasure it.
My last sleeper train experience was the night train from Luxor to Cairo; can there be much more of a contrast! Sleep we did this time after an amazing three course meal, a few words with an incredible chef who took time to chat to all of the guests and a fun evening of musical entertainment on board. Drinks in the bar beside the piano, a sea of smiling faces dressed in their finest; it all sets you up for a sound night.
Morning found us waking in the Austrian Tyrol beside the Inn, a tributary of the Danube before a brief stop in Innsbruck, snow capped peaks rising above us.
Breakfast in our cabin – everything is handled with style and seamlessly. As the countryside rolls by you look forward to lunch, another culinary experience and one that finds you enjoying a different dining car, this time the Cote D’Azur which may well have been our favourite for a number of reasons.
All the time we were nearing ‘La Serenissima’, Venice, ‘the most serene’. Afternoon tea taken in our carriage rounded off the indulgence to our taste buds and the whole experience makes you yearn to do it again.
To travel from Paris to Venice aboard the Orient Express is to live inside a story. It is a journey that defies time, that elevates the special to the magnificent. For those who seek not just to move, but to be moved, it is a pilgrimage of the senses.
Zola might have penned a novel about such a voyage—not of scandal or sorrow, but of splendor. And perhaps, in the quiet moments between stations, he would have smiled, knowing that even in an age of haste, there are still places where poetry lives.
Tips for Travellers
Book Early: The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is in high demand. Reserve your cabin months in advance, especially for spring and autumn departures.
Dress the Part: Embrace the glamour. Formal evening wear is encouraged—think tuxedos, gowns, and vintage accessories.
Pack Light, Pack Smart: Cabins are compact but beautifully appointed. Bring elegant layers within a handy carry on (we chose a Briggs and Riley Garment Duffle).
Savor Every Bite: The dining experience is a highlight. Each meal is a multi-course masterpiece, paired with fine wines and impeccable service.
Unplug and Immerse: There is Wi-Fi onboard but try to hold back from the temptation. Let yourself disconnect and be fully present in the moment—Zola would have approved.
A huge thank you must go to our Travel Counsellor Trevor Smith and to Kirker Holidays for arranging this as part of a much larger journey. Thank you Isaak, one of the many amazing staff on board the train, thank you all and of course to Belmond for keeping the spirit of luxury travel alive and in such great shape.
Venice – Simplon Orient Express: Belmond
By the way; there is a new kid on the block so to speak:
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